INTERNATIONAL JOINT SEMINAR: BRIDGING BRITAIN AND THE FAR EAST

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1 INTERNATIONAL JOINT SEMINAR: BRIDGING BRITAIN AND THE FAR EAST Co- organized by JSPS Scientific Research on Transboundary Contemporary Japanese Fashion (Transboundary Fashion Seminar 1.2) and AHRC Fashion and Translation: Britain, Japan, China, Korea (Workshop 3) on February 13th and 14th 2015 at Bunka Gakuen University in Tokyo. PARTICIPANTS Akiko Savas Ph.D. Candidate at Osaka University; Research Fellow, Japan Society for the Promotion of Science; Research Fellow, Bunka Fashion Research Institute Akiko Savas is a Ph.D. candidate at Osaka University, and a Research Fellow at Japan Society for the Promotion of Science. She is also a Research Fellow at Bunka Fashion Research Institute in Japan and led the research project, Modernization of the Kimono and the Manner of Wearing it from the 1910s to 1930s in Japan - Focusing on the Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum s Collection. She conducted her research for the Osaka University research project: Art and Design in Asia: Comparative Studies for the 21st century from British and Japanese Perspectives as a visiting scholar at the Victoria & Albert Museum in She received a B.A and a M.A in Comparative Literature from Osaka University. Her current research interest is Japonisme and Fashion. She is preparing her Ph.D. thesis entitled Japonisme in British Fashion at the Beginning of the 20th Century. She has presented papers in Japan, USA, and Britain. Her latest publication is Japanese Kimonos for the British Market at the Beginning of the 20th Century in the Journal of the Japan Society of Design in kleosavas@gmail.com Alexandra Palmer Nora E. Vaughan Senior Fashion Costume Curator World Cultures, Textiles & Costume at Royal Ontario Museum Dr. Alexandra Palmer is the Nora E. Vaughan Senior Curator, Textiles & Costume at the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM). She received her BA in Art History from the University of Toronto (1979); her MA in Costume and Textiles from New York University, in conjunction with the Metropolitan Museum of Art (1981); and her PhD in Design History from the University of Brighton (1994).While studying in New York in the 1980s, Dr. Palmer designed and created fashions and hats that she sold to boutiques such as Patricia Field, before returning to teaching, curating, and writing on fashion history. She was Assistant Professor in Art History at the Nova Scotia College of Art & Design, where she taught craft and design history and theory (1995-6). In 1996, she joined the ROM where she is responsible for the collection of

2 western fashionable dress and textiles, and has curated several exhibitions including Elite Elegance: Couture Fashion in the 1950s (2003). Dr. Palmer is also Associate Professor at the University of Toronto, Department of Art. Alexandra Palmer has contributed to international museum catalogues, including The Golden Age: Haute Couture , Victoria & Albert Museum (2007); RRRIPP!! Paper Fashion, Benaki Museum (2007); Christian Dior et le Monde, Musée Dior à Granville (2006); and Un Secolo di Moda, Villa Medici (2003). She has edited and authored chapters in Old Clothes, New Looks: Second Hand Fashion (2005), and Fashion: A Canadian Perspective (2004). She has contributed to The Oxford Companion to Canadian History (2004) and to a wide range of scholarly books including La Moda in Canada (2008), Exploring Contemporary Craft, History, Theory & Critical Writing (2002), Framing Our Past: Constructing Canadian Women s History in the Twentieth Century (2001) and The Culture of Sewing: Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking (1999). Dr. Palmer is also Exhibition Editor for the Journal of Fashion Theory. Her book Couture & Commerce: The Transatlantic Fashion Trade in the 1950s (2001) won a Clio Award for Ontario history, and her most recent book, Dior: A New Look, A New Enterprise , V&A Publications (2009) won the 2010 Millia Davenport Publication Award. She is currently working on a new project, Recuperating Fashion , funded by the Social Science Humanities Research Council of Canada. alexp@rom.on.ca Alice S. Kim Postdoctoral Fellow at the Kyujanggak International Center for Korean Studies at Seoul National University. Alice S. Kim is a Postdoctoral Fellow at the Kyujanggak International Center for Korean Studies at Seoul National University. She received her BA in Art History from Boston University and her MA/PhD in Rhetoric at the University of the California at Berkeley. Her research interests include critical theory, nationalism and globalization, comparative urban modernities, modern Korean history, and transnational cultural studies. She is co- editor of Globalization and Art (2011), and has taught in the Rhetoric Department at UC Berkeley, Underwood International College at Yonsei University and the Graduate School of International Studies at Korea University. kim.alice.s@gmail.com Anna Jackson Keeper of the Asian Department, Victoria and Albert Museum Anna Jackson is Keeper of the Asian Department at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Her major research interest is the cultural relationship between Asia and the West and she also has responsibility for the V&A s collection of Japanese textiles and dress. a.jackson@vam.ac.uk Christine Tsui Fulbright Scholar at New York Parsons the New School for Design; PhD candidate at the University of Hong Kong Christine Tsui is a Fulbright scholar at New York Parsons the New School for Design and a PhD candidate at the University of Hong Kong majoring in Modern China. Her research is about the comparative study of American fashion system and the Chinese fashion system. She obtained her master s degree in Fashion Marketing & Management from London

3 College of Fashion in She was also one of the five final nominees of the Best Alumni of the Year (China Region) hosted by British Council in Tsui has taught the course, China Fashion/Nation with Professor Hazel Clark at Parsons the New School for Design. She was also a visiting Associate Professor at the Shanghai Design Institute- China Academy of Arts from 2004 to Tsui worked in clothing industry in China for nearly 15 years, with clients who included the sports giant Nike, the largest Chinese clothing and shoes retailer Belle and the largest supply chain management enterprise in Asia, Li & Fung Group. Her work experience encompassed operations, sales, retailing, product management and general management. Her primary publications include: China Fashion: Conversations with Designers in both English and Chinese (Bloomsbury, 2009; Hong Kong University Press, 2013; China Textile Press, 2014) and Work Book for Fashion Buyers (Chinese, China Textile Press, 2011). Work Book for Fashion Buyers won the Best Book of the Year award in the Textile & Clothing Category in 2012, and has been reprinted multiple times. Tsui is also the author of journal article From Symbols to Spirit: Changing Conceptions of National Identity in Chinese Fashion, which was published in Fashion Theory, Vol. 17, Her forthcoming publication will be The Concept of Fashion in the Chinese Context in Modern Fashion Traditions: Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, edited by Angela Jansen and Jennifer Craik, Bloomsbury, She has also been invited to contribute Contemporary Chinese Fashion Design to the Encyclopaedia of Asian Design by Bloomsbury. taotaoct@yahoo.com Daphne Mohajer Va Pesaran Bunka Gakuen University Graduate School Doctor Candidate Daphne is an Iranian- Canadian fashion designer and trend forecaster with an MA in Fashion Design from Bunka Fashion Graduate University. She has worked with Mihara Yasuhiro and Shoichi Aoki. She now lectures on fashion design theory and practice and plans to begin her PhD studies in April 2015 on the topic of traditional craft in modernity. Daphne.mohajer@gmail.com Elizabeth Kramer Senior Lecturer in Design History, Northumbria University, Newcastle- upon- Tyne Before joining Northumbria University in 2009 as Senior Lecturer in Design History, Elizabeth Kramer held a Leverhulme Early Career Fellowship in Historical Studies at Newcastle University (2007-9), during which time she conducted research on the material culture of manias. This expanded upon her research on the Japan mania in Victorian Britain ( ) conducted during a previous postdoctoral fellowship in Material Culture- Textiles for the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies (2005-7). She is interested in Anglo- Japanese artistic and cultural interaction, with a focus on the Victorian and Meiji periods. This includes Anglo- Japanese fashion exchange and a special interest in British middle class consumption of Japanese decorative arts for the home, as well as the Japanese inspiration on British design during the Japan mania. Her article, Not So Japan-

4 Easy : The British Reception of Japanese Dress in the Late Nineteenth Century, Textile History 44, 1 (2013): 3-24 was awarded the Pasold Prize elizabeth.kramer@northumbria.ac.uk Helen Persson Curator, Chinese Textiles and Dress, Asian Department, Victoria and Albert Museum Helen Persson has been at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, since 2001 and is Curator, Chinese textiles and dress, in the Asian Department. She got her first degree in Archaeology at the University of Stockholm and her second in History of Dress at the Courtauld Institute, London in Helen s special interests include Chinese export textiles and the archaeologist Sir Aurel Stein ( ). She has lectured and published extensively on textiles from the Silk Road, among others Textiles from Dunhuang in UK Collections, edited by Zhao Feng (2007). She contributed to the V&A publication Medieval and Renaissance Art: People and Possession (eds. G. Davies and K. Kennedy,2009) with a text on Mongol silks and the Italian silk industry. Helen s next research project will be on the Chinese export textiles in the V&A collection. h.persson@vam.ac.uk Hyewon Lee Curator and Art History Professor, Daejin University Hyewon Lee is a Curator and Art History Professor at Daejin University in South Korea. She has written extensively on transcultural flows in art and politics, while curating such exhibitions as Waterscapes: the Politics of Water (2014) in Seoul, Korea, Water Bodies ( ) in Chennai, India, A Room of his Own: Masculinities in Korea and the Middle East (2014) in Seoul; the Gohan- Sabuk Art Project (2009) for a former mining valley in the east coast of the Korean peninsula and an Online Public Art Project for Seoul (2007). She has also curated What They Have Carried: From Yeoido to Incheon (2011), an award- winning exhibition of various objects and artefacts that South Koreans brought home from their overseas travels from the time of Vietnam War to the first decade of the 21st century. Mapping a society that has been in a constant process of defining and redefining itself in terms of Others under the frenzied speed of modernization/industrialization, this exhibition aimed to reveal the weight of intangible burden that they have carried- - an aspiration for becoming world citizens in routes that shifted as the world system itself underwent changes. She believes in art as social practice and her projects have mostly been inspired by her own lived experience of everyday. wowhyewon@gmail.com Julia Nascimento Santos PhD Student, Bunka Gakuen University Julia has an MA in fashion business; her thesis focused on the Japanese organic cotton market consumer. She has also contributed a book chapter, DA PAMPULHA A ISRAEL: Candido Portinari, desenho e diversidade Estudos Judaicos: Brasil, in Belo Horizonte: Faculdade de Letras, FALE/UFMG, 2007 ( FROM PAMPULHA TO ISRAEL: Candido Portinari, drawing and diversity, in Jewish Studies: Brazil ). Her undergraduate research was in literature, film and Jewish studies. julia_nanto@yahoo.co.jp

5 Kohka Yoshimura Curator, Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum Yoshimura graduated from Bunka Gakuen University (previously Bunka Women s University), majoring in the History of Japanese Clothing. In 1990 she began working as a curator at Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum. She is primarily responsible for ethnic clothing and textiles of East and South Asia, Central America and Europe in the Collection. yoshimura@bunka.ac.jp Samuel Thomas Fashion Columnist, The Japan Times Samuel Thomas is a fashion writer and regular contributor to The Japan Times newspaper, Metropolis magazine, as well as his own website TokyoTelephone.com. In addition, he is currently a guest lecturer at Bunka Gakuen University, while also pursuing his own studies at The University of Tokyo. Samuel.patrick.thomas@gmail.com Sarah Cheang Senior Tutor in History of Design, Royal College of Art Sarah Cheang s work centres on embodied responses to culture exchange, in particular fashion, interior design and gender and Sino- British cultural exchange in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. She is currently working on two book projects: Fashion and Ethnicity, which examines the dynamics of fashion and ethnicity, and Sinophilia, which explores the history of fashions for Chinese things in Britain and expressions of femininity. Sarah.Cheang@rca.ac.uk Sheila Cliffe Professor of Expression of Culture Dept, Jumonji Gakuen Women's University Sheila Cliffe completed her PhD, Revisiting Fashion and Tradition Through the Kimono at the School of Design, University of Leeds, UK. She is a certified and practicing teacher and dresser of kimono and has been exhibiting her kimono collection and putting on kimono events since Sheila has been sponsored by the Daiwa Anglo- Japanese Foundation and The Japan Foundation. She has held a yuzen dyeing masterclass at Manchester Metropolitan University Fashion department in the UK and has been a guest speaker at Bunka Gakuen University and Hosei University. She has presented on kimono at academic conferences in Japan, Korea, Hawaii, Tasmania and the UK and has appeared in numerous magazines and on TV shows including BBC News North West, NHK World English Introducing kimono, Asahi TV Eco no Sahou, TV Tokyo, NHK Chikyuu Radio, etc. She recently produced 5 shorts for YouTube entitled, Kimono World. limegreen349@jcom.home.ne.jp Toby Slade Associate Professor, the University of Tokyo Toby Slade is an Associate Professor at the University of Tokyo researching Asian modernity and the history and theory of fashion. His previous research has focused on Asian responses to modernity seen through art objects of the everyday like fashion, the suit and its role in modernity, the ideas of style and the classic, and the governing dynamics of systems of

6 fashion. His book Japanese Fashion: A Cultural History (Berg, 2009), covers the entire sweep of fashion and clothing in Japan from the earliest times to today. For more current information please check: tobyslade@me.com Yunah Lee Lecturer in Art and Design History, University of Brighton Dr. Yunah Lee is Lecturer in History of Art and Design at the University of Brighton. After obtaining her PhD on the representation of modernity and national identity in design exhibitions of the British Design Council, Yunah's recent research investigates the development and potential of design history in Korea. She has been exploring the notions of traditions and identities in the progress of (re)writing of Korean history post 1945 in the area of graphic design and fashion. She has been a core steering member of the AHRC Network project Translating and Writing Modern Design Histories in East Asia for the Global World ( ). Y.A.Lee@brighton.ac.uk Yayoi Motohashi, Curator at the National Art Center, Tokyo. Yayoi Motohashi worked on the exhibitions on contemporary art, fashion and design at the National Art Center, Tokyo such as : Skin + Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture, 2007; Artist File 2008 The NACT Annual Show of Contemporary Art; Artist File 2009 The NACT Annual Show of Contemporary Art; Van Gogh: The adventure of becoming an artist, 2010; Hiroji Noda, 2012; 400 Years of European Masterpieces from the State Hermitage Museum, 2012; California Design Living in a Modern Way, 2013; Ballets Russes: The Art of Costume, motohashi@nact.jp Yoko Takagi Professor, Graduate School of Fashion and the Living Environment Studies and Program Director of Global Fashion Concentration, English MA Program, Bunka Gakuen University, Tokyo Yoko Takagi completed her PhD at the Free University Brussels (1999) and published it in 2002: Japonisme in Fin de Siècle Art in Belgium (Pandora). Her exhibition experience includes curating Feel and Think: A New Era of Tokyo Fashion (National Art School Gallery, Sydney, Australia in 2013 and Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery and Kobe Fashion Museum in 2011) and serving as Commissioner for Katagami Style (Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum, The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto and Mie Prefectural Art Museum in 2012) and Katagami: Les pochoirs japonais et le japonisme (Maison cultural du Japan à Paris in ). Recently she has been awarded the prestigious Grant- in- Aid for Scientific Research, Japan Society for the Promotion of Science for Scientific Research on Transboundary Contemporary Japanese Fashion. takagi@bunka.ac.jp

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