Claire McCardell fashion sketches, KA.0082

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1 Claire McCardell fashion sketches, KA.0082 This finding aid was produced using the Archivists' Toolkit February 28, 2017 Describing Archives: A Content Standard Kellen Design Archives October 7, th Ave./ lobby level New York, NY,

2 Table of Contents Collection Overview... 2 Biographical note... 3 Scope and Contents of Collection... 4 Arrangement note... 4 Administrative Information... 4 Related Materials... 5 Keywords for Searching Related Subjects... 5 Other Finding Aids note... 6 Collection Inventory... 6 Series I. Ephemera... 6 Series II. Sketches... 6 Collection Overview Repository Kellen Design Archives Creator McCardell, Claire, Creator - Designer Orrick, Mildred, Creator - Designer Scaasi, Arnold Creator Townley Frocks (Firm). Title Claire McCardell fashion sketches Date [inclusive] Page 2 -

3 Extent 51.2 linear ft: 128 binders, 1 folder Abstract Claire McCardell ( ) graduated from the New York School of Fine and Applied Art (later, Parsons School of Design) in 1928 and went on to become a pivotal figure in the creation of American ready-to-wear clothing. McCardell received the Coty American Fashion Critics Award in 1944, and in the same year returned to Parsons as a critic and instructor, a position she held for the rest of her life. The Kellen Design Archives has approximately 9,000 of McCardell's working sketches, covering the years ; the bulk were produced for Townley Frocks. The collection also includes sketches by Mildred Orrick and Scaasi (Arnold Isaacs) for Townley Frocks. Preferred Citation note [Identification of item], [date (if known)], Claire McCardell fashion sketches, KA.0082, box, binder, New School Archives and Special Collections, The New School, New York, New York. Biographical note Claire McCardell was born in Frederick, Maryland in 1905 and attended the New York School of Fine and Applied Art (today, Parsons The New School for Design) from 1925 to With a certificate in Costume Design, McCardell joined the team of New York fashion designer Robert Turk. After Turk met a sudden death, McCardell became head designer for Townley Frocks. Closed for business in 1938 or 1939, Townley Frocks would re-open its doors in 1940 and offer McCardell her own label, Claire McCardell Clothes by Townley. Adolph Klein, the owner of Townley Frocks, made her a partner of the firm in McCardell returned to Parsons in 1944 as a critic and lecturer. That same year, she was honored with the first of her two Winnies, the prestigious Coty American Fashion Critics' Awards. In 1945, Lord & Taylor picked up McCardell's collection for Townley, and in 1950, U.S. President Harry Truman presented McCardell with the Women s National Press Club Award. McCardell exhibited her work at the Frank Perls Gallery of Beverly Hills in 1953, and appeared on the cover of Time magazine in May Claire McCardell died from cancer at the age of 52 in Her friend and former Parsons classmate Mildred Orrick ( ) stepped in to finish McCardell's line at Townley Frocks. The firm closed in Page 3 -

4 Claire McCardell fashion sketches, KA.0082 Scope and Contents of Collection The bulk of the collection consists of approximately 9,000 fashion sketches produced by Claire McCardell for Townley Frocks between 1931 and just before her death in All sketches are rendered in pencil, with 163 accompanied by fabric swatches. In addition to the Townley sketches, the collection includes 510 sketches McCardell created for Hattie Carnegie and 163 sketches she created for Win-Sum between 1939 and 1940, during the period when Townley had temporarily ceased production. Fellow Townley designers Arnold Isaacs (1930-), who in the early 1950s had begun using the name "Scaasi," and Mildred Orrick are also represented in the collection. The 18 Scassi sketches were produced for Townley's "Urban" label during McCardell's final season and Orrick contributed approximately 250 sketches for McCardell's line during McCardell's illness and immediately following her death. The collection includes one folder of ephemera, mostly on Townley stationery and order forms, featuring jottings regarding materials and garment numbers. There is also a sketch of what appears to be a garment manufacturing company, with areas labeled "shipping" and "piece goods," and three items of correspondence between Lake Dress Manufacturing Company of New York and W. I. Young of Norfolk, Virginia, dated The collection includes no personal materials, nor does it include professional correspondence apart from the Lake-Young items in the Ephemera series. It is important to note that the years used to organize the collection are approximations based on inscriptions found on numerous sketches. Arrangement note Organized in 2 series. Arrangement is chronological. I Ephemera, 1932, undated II Sketches, Administrative Information Publication Information Kellen Design Archives October 7, 2010 Access Restrictions - Page 4 -

5 Collection is open for research use. Please contact for appointment. Use Restrictions To publish images of material from this collection, permission must be obtained in writing from the New School Archives. Please contact: Custodial History note Sketches donated to Parsons School of Design by Adolph Klein, president of Townley Frocks, Immediate Source of Acquisition Internally transferred to Kellen Design Archives from Adam and Sophie Gimbel Design Library of Parsons School of Design, circa Related Materials Biographical materials about Claire McCardell as well as photographs of the designer visiting and lecturing at Parsons will be found in the New School Archives' Parsons School of Design Alumni Association records (PC ). The New School Archives also holds the papers of McCardell's classmate, friend, and Townley collaborator, Mildred Orrick in Mildred Orrick fashion and costume sketches (KA.0067) and two garments designed by Claire McCardell. Keywords for Searching Related Subjects Genre(s) Sketches. Occupation(s) Fashion designers. Personal Name(s) Carnegie, Hattie Subject(s) Clothing trade -- New York (State) -- New York. Fashion design. Women's clothing industry. Women's clothing -- United States -- 20th century. - Page 5 -

6 Claire McCardell fashion sketches, KA.0082 Other Finding Aids note For selected item-level description and images from the Claire McCardell fashion sketches, see The New School Archives Digital Collections at collections/ka0082 Collection Inventory Series I. Ephemera 1932, undated k_3 11 Series II. Sketches Link to selected images from this series., [ Townley Frocks: Townley Frocks: 1932 Townley Frocks: 1933 Townley Frocks: 1934 Townley Frocks: 1935 Townley Frocks: 1936 Townley Frocks: 1937 Sketches labeled , , 861, 863, , and 875 are not by McCardell. Unknown hand. Townley Frocks: 1938 Box Folder - Page 6 -

7 49 17 Townley Frocks: Sketches labeled are not by McCardell and are in color. Unknown hand. Hattie Carnegie: Includes binders formerly titled "Hattie Carnegie: Spring 1939", "Hattie Carnegie: Fall 1939", and "Hattie Carnegie: Palm Beach 1939". Hattie Carnegie: Includes binders formerly titled "Hattie Carnegie: Paris 1940" (Parts 1, 2, and 3). Win Sum: Includes binders formerly titled "Win Sum: Fall 1940" and "Win Sum: Palm Beach 1940". Townley Frocks: 1941 Townley Frocks: 1942 Townley Frocks: 1943 Townley Frocks: Townley Frocks: Includes binders formerly titled "Townley Frocks: Cotton/Resort 1945", "Townley Frocks: Resort 1945", and "Townley Frocks: Fall 1945". Townley Frocks: Townley Frocks: 1947 Includes a binder formerly titled "Townley Frocks: Junior Editions/Holiday Line 1947", as well as "Townley Frocks: Fall 1947", "Townley Frocks: Resort 1948", and "Townley Frocks: Summer 1948". Townley Frocks: Townley Frocks: Includes binders formerly titled "Townley Frocks: Junior Editions " and "Townley Frocks: Fall 1949". Townley Frocks: 1950 Includes binders formerly titled "Townley Frocks: Resort 1949", "Townley Frocks: Fall 1950", "Townley Frocks: Junior Editions 1950", and "Townley Frocks: Resort 1950" Townley Frocks: Page 7 -

8 Includes binders formerly titled "Townley Frocks: Stay-Home/Early Cotton 1951", "Townley Frocks: Resort 1950", and "Townley Frocks: Fall 1951". Townley Frocks: 1952 Pants [ KA0082_000001] Townley Frocks: Townley Frocks: Townley Frocks: Townley Frocks: Includes binders formerly titled "Townley Frocks: Baby McCardell Fall/ Holiday 1956", "Townley Frocks: Fall 1956", and "Townley Frocks: Resort 1956" Townley Frocks: 1957 Townley Frocks: 1958 Sketches from binder 127 labeled 801, 803, 805, 807, 809, 811, 813, 815, 817, 819, 821, 823, 825, 827, 831, 833, 835 and 837 are all by Arnold Scaasi. The rest of the sketches in binders are by Mildred Orrick Page 8 -

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