FIRTHLANDS OF ROSS AND SUTHERLAND

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1 FRTHLANDS OF ROSS AND SUTHERLAND Edited by John R. Baldwin

2 Published in Scotland by: The Scottish Society for Northern Studies c/o School of Scottish Studies University of Edinburgh 27 George Square Edinburgh EH8 9LD SBN Copyright Scottish Society of Northern Studies and individual contributors. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form, in any quantity or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the Society and appropriate contributors. Multiple copying of any of the contents of the publication is always illegal. The Scottish Society for Northern Studies gratefully acknowledges financial assistance in the publication of this volume from CALEDONAN TOWAGEANDMARNESERVCES LTD HGHLAND FABRCATORS LTD HGHLAND REGONAL COUNCL T. D. HUNTER LTD (SUTHERLAND WOOL MLLS) ROYAL COMMSSON ON THE ANCENT AND HSTORCAL MONUMENTS OF SCOTLAND SUTHERLAND DSTRCT COUNCL and from its major commercial sponsor Britoil BR/TOL pie Text set throughout in 10 on 11 Sabon Printed by W. S. Maney and Son Ltd Leeds England

3 CONTENTS Editor's Preface Geology and Landscape of Easter Ross and Sutherland. CON GLLEN Vll l Norse and Celtic Place-Names around the Dornoch Firth. AN A. FRASER The Making of a Frontier: The Firthlands from the Ninth to Twelfth Centuries. BARBARA E. CRAWFORD The Medieval Church in the North: Contrasting nfluences in the Dioceses of Ross and Caithness. RONALD G. CANT The Earldom of Ross and the Lordship of the sles. JEAN MUNRO The Moray Firth Province: Trade and Family Links in the Eighteenth Century. AN R. M. MOWAT The Cromartie Estate, : Aspects of Trade and Organization. MONCA CLOUGH Architecture and Society in Easter Ross before GEOFFREY STELL Late Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century Estate Girnals in Easter Ross and South-East Sutherland. ELZABETH BEATON Land Assessments and Settlement History in Sutherland and Easter Ross. MALCOLM BANGOR-JONES The Clearances in South-East Sutherland. ROD HOUSTON The Long Trek: Agricultural Change and the Great Northern Drove. JOHN R. BALDWN lll

4 Cast-iron fountain, Portmahomack.

5 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We are indebted to all the contributors for giving so freely of their time and expertise, both at the Conference at Bonar Bridge in 1983 and to the present volume. The Scottish Society for Northern Studies is also particularly grateful for photographs, plans and other illustrations to the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland, the Royal Museum of Scotland, the Historic Buildings and Monuments Directorate of the Scottish Development Department, the National Galleries of Scotland, the National Library of Scotland, the Scottish Record Office, the Scottish Tourist Board, the Earl of Cromartie, Mr B. Urquhart of Craigston, Mrs H. Ross of Lochslin, Dr J. C. Close-Brookes, Mr]. Forsyth and Miss H. Hoare. Jane Davidson, formerly of the School of Scottish Studies, University of Edinburgh, very kindly re-typed several sections of the manuscript, and a number of illustrations were skilfully drawn or redrawn by Douglas Lawson temporarily with the Scottish Wildlife Trust. The Society is delighted to record financial assistance towards publication from Britoil pie, Highland Regional Council, Caledonian Towage and Marine Services Ltd U. P. Knight Ltd), T. D. Hunter Ltd (Sutherland Wool Mills), Sutherland District Council, Highlands Fabricators Ltd. n addition, the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland has most generously grant-aided the chapter by Mr G. Stell. To the Commission also, therefore, our most sincere thanks. v

6 AROUND THE FRTHLANDS Ben Wyv/s~ 01ass N t & mll 10 1G i1km1 2~ ~ V

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8 CONTRBUTORS ]OHN R. BALDWN, Chief Executive of the Scottish Wildlife Trust in Edinburgh, is monographs editor for the Scottish Society for Northern Studies. MALCOLM BANGOR-JONES is a postgraduate student in the Department of Geography, University of Dundee. ELZABETH BEATON, Hopeman, works part-time as an investigator for the Historic Buildings and Monuments Division, Scottish Development Department. RONALD G. CANT is Honorary Research Fellow, University of St Andrews Mo N CA CLOUGH, Drumnadrochit, has been carrying out considerable research on the Cromartie Papers. BARBARA E. CRAWFORD lectures in Medieval History at the University of St Andrews. AN A. FRASER lectures in the School of Scottish Studies, University of Edinburgh, and heads the Place-Name Survey. CON GLLEN lectures in the Department of Adult Education and Extra-Mural Studies, University of Aberdeen. ROD HOUSTON is Principal Teacher of Geography, Golspie High School. AN R. M. MOWAT is Librarian, University of Hull and formerly Associate Librarian, University of Glasgow. jean MUNRO, Edinburgh, is an historian who, with her husband, R. W. Munro, has made detailed studies of the Lordship of the sles. GEOFFREY STELL is an investigator with the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland, Edinburgh. llustrations Cover nside Cover: p. 153 p.167 p.221 nside Cover: Bonar Bridge, Kyle of Sutherland. William Daniell aquatint, 1821 (N.G.S.). nner Dornoch Firth towards Bonar Bridge and the Kyle of Sutherland (S.T.B.). Farmland of the Black sle (S.T.B.). Cromartie lands near Tain. D. McKenzie, 1818 (Earl of Cromartie). Timber bridge in Strathgarve, 1976 (R.C.A.H.M.S.). Falls of Rogie, Easter Ross (S.T.B.).